Pruning an Old Apple Tree
Coronavirus 19
Public Panic!
Self and Government Quarantine
What am I going to do for the next 14 days?
Wow! As a homesteader, my Spring to-do list might even get done, I won’t be a couch potato and I’ll be getting lots of exercise and fresh Spring air. Maybe not so bad?
Since some of you won’t be going to work, I thought I would share how to prune an old apple tree so you would have a good homestead project to work on.
It has been 4 years since this young Fuji apple tree was pruned. As you can see, it was long overdue. This is our project for the day.
Questions to think about:
#1. How do I know if my apple tree needs pruning? Well, it does every year, so, yeah, it needs pruning.
a. Are you having low production and small, golf-ball size apples?
b. Do the apples have scabs and discolorations?
c. Are most of the apples too high to pick?
If you answered Yes to any of these questions, you need to prune.
#2. How do I prune? I don’t know how. It’s really pretty simple. Follow these steps:
a. Remove all dead and damaged branches
b. Remove all suckers at the ground level and on the main tree trunk
c. Remove all diseased branches
d. Remove all water sprouts – straight up and down branches
e. Remove the least desirable branch that touches or crosses another branch
These branches cross one another and touch. The smaller, top branch is marked for removal.
You can see the damaged limb with breaks and cracks. This limb should be removed. It will break under the load of a heavy fruit crop.
If you stop here and don’t prune anything else, you just improved your apple tree and will have a bigger and better crop.
You will also be reducing the tree height so you can pick the apples.
#3. What if I make a mistake?
a. Nature is very forgiving.
b. Fruit production may not occur until the next year.
c. Most likely, the tree will be healthier than before you pruned.
Let’s talk about some reasons why and how we prune apple trees:
#1 We prune the tree to make it stronger and healthy.
#2 We prune, so air can flow through the tree, reducing virus and fungus. Also birds can remove unwanted pests from within the tree canopy.
#3 Fruit (including tomatoes) need direct sunlight to grow and ripen.
I recommend you read the OSU Extension’s bulletins on fruit tree pruning. The Franklin County bulletin is very good for other fruits and berries, too. You can read them online.
Pruning Mature Apples and Pears, HYG-1150-93.pdf
Another site is on Fiskars site – A Complete Guide to Pruning and Trimming Trees. https://www.fiskars.com/en-us/gardening-and-yard-care/ideas-and-how-tos/pruning-and-trimming/when-and-how-to-prune-tree-limbs-properly
After watching some videos and reading through the bulletins, you will have a better idea of what to do and what tools you will need. If you don’t have pruners and a pole saw, check with your neighbors and friends. See what they have that you can borrow. Check your camping gear for a pruning saw.
Basic tools used for pruning. A sturdy ladder, pruning shears, loppers, pruning pole saw, electric pruning saw.
Still not sure? Take colored surveyor tape and mark problem areas in the apple tree. Have your family involved and teach the next generation!
1. Start at the base of the tree and remove all the suckers.
The sucker grows from the trunk of the apple tree. Note the yellow surveyor's tape used to mark branches to be removed.
2. You may want to remove the lower branches so you can walk or mow under the tree.
3. Remove dead, damaged, and/or diseased limbs.
Note: I start low and work upwards so I can easily see problems and remove the cut branches.
This branch was diseased and needed removed.
4. Remove all ‘water sprouts’ on lower limbs. These are branches that grow straight up, usually at a 90° angle to a main branch.
Now you are getting a picture of an open tree.
The first picture is a downward 'water spout' branch. They can also grow straight up (see picture 2). ALSO, note the shadow of the tree - see how full it is and how badly in need of pruning. Very little sunlight would penetrate the leaves to reach the fruit without pruning.
5. When selecting which main branches you want to select to keep or cut, consider:
a. Select branches with strong crotch wood for support of a heavy fruit crop. Branches with a 90° angle are weak and will break under a heavy crop.
When selecting branches to keep, avoid branches at 90 degrees from trunk. This branch is strong and should be kept.
b. The branch should have no large branches directly above it when you are finished pruning.
c. Please follow the suggested limb pruning techniques from Fiskars (link above), so you don’t cause the bark to tear down the tree trunk, allowing insects and diseases to enter.
6. You may reduce the length of branches by cutting the tips back – leaving 3 buds from last year’s new growth.
7. Remove all brush so you have a secure and debris free area to work.
8. All cut branches and limbs need to be removed and burned to keep insects from having a place to breed and spread.
This is the brush pile created from pruning 2 trees. It will be burned to destroy insects and diseases.
9. Now, move up the tree to the next whorl of branches and repeat the process.
10. After you are done on the second level, you will continue to move up the tree.
11. The question now becomes, how high of a tree do you want? Without a fruit ladder, most of us can’t harvest above 15’ from the ground. Most old apple trees are 30 feet in height.
12. The rule of thumb is to only reduce the height by 1/3 of the total of the deduction per year. For example, if you want the tree to be 6 feet shorter, you will only remove 2 feet of height this year.
13. OK, I cheat. I know how hard it is to get up there to cut back the top branches and how the branches get stuck in the lower limbs. I also know I don’t enjoy or look forward to doing this for the next 2 years, so I will go ‘whole hog’ and reduce the height all in one year. I might kill the tree or I might not get any apples until the next year but I will know that I will not be dreading the pruning adventure next year.
14. I had a few trees that didn’t produce any fruit until the next year, but all trees have survived the drastic topping. However, my wife was very upset when I butchered her beautiful apple tree at the bottom of the driveway, until we harvested a great crop of apples that fall.
The finished tree. Ready for spring growth. The branches are open to allow sun to reach fruit. Air movement is increased so diseases, especially fungal diseases, will be less likely.
Special note: After all this work, PLEASE don't kill the tree by girdling it with the weed-eater.
aka 'Weed-eater disease'.
More Questions:
#4. When should I prune?
a. The common belief is to prune mid-winter or early spring before the buds break open.
b. Some growers are pruning after the fruit buds set while the tree is actively growing. They believe if you wait until the fruit bud sets, all the tree’s energy goes into the fruit and not into leaves and ‘water sprouts’.
c. Whenever you prune it is much better to prune that to do nothing.
#5. I don’t have any fruit trees but my neighbor does.
a. Many people have trees that are neglected and are willing to have someone take care of them. Talk with them about managing the trees and sharing the harvest.
#6. Remember:
a. Do Something
b. Open the tree for sunlight and air to reach the fruit.
c. Remove and burn cut limbs – don’t leave them lying under the tree.
d. Enjoy a good apple this fall.
If you still have extra time, here is a list of some homestead to-do’s:
Build raised garden beds – your knees will thank you
Start your sweet potatoes
Build or organize your tool room
Build or repair livestock gates, feeder and fences
Repair or build equipment. Note: If you need parts for your farm equipment, call the dealer and have them ship you that part. USPS is running and the dealer will appreciate the business.
Cut firewood and timber products
Start your garden
Clean out the livestock barns
Or, you can quarantine like my friend, George. Spend the day in the middle of a lake fishing or get ready for turkey season!
Be safe,
Bob.
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